Led by Francesco, our fashion assistant, we will discover the etiquette’s cardinal rules for a flawless groom.
You know, summer brings with it weekends at the beach, trekking “En Plein Air”, cocktails with friends and … invitation to many, many weddings.
The most frequently asked questions to our fashion assistants concern – especially in this period – the wedding dress code. Groom-to-be, wedding witnesses, friends and simple guests come to our boutiques searching for a simple suit but then find themselves in a sort of mysterious dimension, a “gentlemen’s club”, in which being comfortable is a must.
So, we asked our fashion assistants the etiquette’s basics for the perfect wedding dress code.
- If you do not feel comfortable in a tuxedo but, at the same time, you do not want to give up a sophisticated and fancy style, choose a suit that reproduces some of its features. It is very easy to find suits that have tuxedo-style lapels, buttons, pockets and cummerbund, without being classic.
- The perfect buttoning depends on the model of jacket and vest. If you have a vest on, only the last bottom button ought to be remain unbuttoned. While, if you wear a jacket, you must first look at the model. If it is a one-button jacket, it must be buttoned-up when standing and unbuttoned when sitting to avoid unsightly creases. For two – or more – buttons models, all buttons must be buttoned-up except for the last one.
- Double-breasted jackets have internal and external buttons. According to the etiquette, all inner buttons must be buttoned. The lower and outer external button must be left undone. Recognizing the perfect double-breasted suit for your silhouette is simple: the jacket should not show creases while you are standing up.
- The trousers’cuff is a very important sartorial detail. Etiquette dictates that an inside fold (just to be clear, no to the external cuff if you wear an elegant dress!) should shiver on the shoe’s heel. In case of particularly skinny trousers, you can also take them in by a few millimetres to make the fabric slip elegantly and look taut, avoiding unpleasant creases.
- The trousers must be worn in a natural way, they must not have crease of any kind, they must “fall” gently on the leg’s silhouette like – more or less – slim fit pants and be customized according to the model. It is also possible to make a slight sartorial change in the width of the leg to narrow the fabric if it seems too wide: our fashion assistants, however, recommend not overdoing it, in order not to distort the whole suit’s design.
- If you do not particularly like black, but you have to wear a dark suit (it was specified in the invitation or even just the wedding takes place in the evening) choose dark blue. Dashing in its timeless simplicity.
- The jackets’ pockets should not be opened. Little style tip: when there are flap pockets, typical of casual models, and you want to make your suit a little more elegant, you can open the pocket and put the flap inside.
- It is not necessary to wear a vest to be elegant. There are suits that were born with the vest, others that lack it. When you decide to add a vest to a suit that does not have it, opt for a contrasting colour. In this case, the tie and the bow tie must match with the colour
- The choice between tie and bow tie is completely personal, it depends on your style and how comfortable you feel. The tie gives a greater – and we use that term loosely – “filler” touch and communicates more tradition. The bow tie is a more “extravagant” accessory. Of course it is better to choose a ton sur ton or light colour (pearl grey is the most common, but ivory is also perfect).
- In elegant ceremonies, the bow tie should be worn preferably with a tuxedo shirt, with wing tip collar and covered placket that hides the buttons.
- The shirt – strictly in white colour – must have a double cuff to wear the cufflinks.
- Loafers, monk straps and other kind of footwear are banned! Shoes must be strictly laced and black, even if the dress is blue. An exception to the rule can be dark blue lace-ups, as long as they are super elegant too.